Chameleons are mainly insectivores which means their primary diet is insects. It is important to feed your animal with a varied, well ‘gut loaded’ diet, to ensure your chameleon doesn’t get bored as they are notoriously known for. We find that by feeding small amounts more often suits them better than larger amounts less often.
‘Gut-loading’ means that the insects you are feeding your animal has a full gut.
There are products on the market to help you with the ‘gut-loading’ process, some are better than others. We tend to use a Sticky Tongue Farms Vit-All and fresh fruit and vegetables. Once your insects have been well fed you should feed your animals within 24hrs, this is due to the feeders having such a high digestive system. The feeders we tend to use are Crickets, locusts, roaches and silkworms though we occasionally treat with fruit beetle larvae . Crickets are nocturnal so will need to be removed from your enclosure at night, we’ve found they eat harder veg such as carrots, celeriac etc, while locusts eat leafy matter such as dandelion leaves, spring greens etc, and roaches will eat anything! Silkworms are a little difficult as they only eat mulberry leaves but are an excellent food source due to their calcium:phosphorus ratio. The other feeders mentioned have poor calcium:phosphorous levels so we need to balance this out by using a phosphorus free calcium powder. In addition to this we also need to use a good quality vitamin supplement.
Cup feeding: This is a good way to monitor food intake and avoid stray crickets as it can be removed at night.
Free roaming: A more natural way to feed and will encourage hunting instincts. This method works well with locusts.
Some adult insects for example: crickets, locusts, develop a hard exoskeleton which is difficult for the animal to digest, we feel by feeding slightly smaller prey items is better than larger. This is of course only our opinion there are plenty of feeding methods around for you to devise your own routine.